Final: Confirmed with 3 days of running and cycling, that root cause was actually the switch relay. Not the separate GFCI outlet.
Thanks team!!!
UPDATE 3: I think I may have determined the root cause. One of the power terminals on the switch relay was loose. So, what likely was happening was it wasn't getting the full current from both power lines due to an intermittent connection. I think I may have been getting the 118V reading on the line that wasn't powered by getting current back into the terminal through the other line (which was live). Therefore, it was likely getting 118V x1 line and not getting the full amperage draw.
Not 100% confirmed but there is some smoke coming out of a barrel.
UPDATE #2: So I was setting the timer switches and when I touched the service box the pump cut out. Cycled it off and back on and it started running again. Tapped the top of the box a few times and it cut out for good. Now I know the cause is internal to that box and is either a loose wire, bad timer switch, bad switch relay or a bad breaker. Since I'm hearing the relay making it's switch actuation sound my best guess is that it's a loose wire (since it's intermittent with contact and each of the components appear to function).
At least I now know it's not the GFI outlet.
Yay off season Saturdays.
UPDATE 1: So the damn pump decided to work!
I was in the process of turning off breakers to find out which the outlet and pool equipment are on and I surprised the shit out of me when it started right up!
On one hand I'm happy as hell; on the other I'm annoyed because I don't have the root cause (yet...) and it may be an ongoing or intermittent issue. Maybe P Diddy's space electrician can help figure out the root cause.
At least this gives me something to do, right?
Question for you professional and amateur electricians out there. Having an odd challenge with my pool pump.
My pump stopped working after a year or so of making some noise. I had the backup pump ready to go when it quit. Wired for 230V, old unit was a 1 1/2 HP single speed and new is a 3/4 HP single speed Pentair Superflo.
Swapped it out, confirmed both power leads were at 118 VAC, and I went to fire it up. Nothing. Not even a bit of noise/hum. Pentair sent me a new motor assembly thinking it was a bad start capacitor. Swapped motors and the same, not a thing. Pentair again confirmed I had it wired correctly and with two leads at 118 V it should run fine.
Supply wires from my pool's service panel (breakers and timer switches) are 2 black wires with 118V and a green grounding wire. Same wiring on original and replacement.
Another possible contributing factor may be a GFI outlet in my backyard just quit around the same time as the pool pump. My thinking was it's got to be on separate circuit AND that if the GFI quit, a broken circuit is a broken circuit and I wouldn't even be seeing the 118V at the motor. ALSO, if the motor is seeing the power, why the hell isn't it turning? My multimeter doesn't have a setting to measure amps for AC so I can't tell if it's too low of a current to get the motor to turn. I also took off the cover and checked the start capacitor and it showed no signs of charge (nothing when I tried to short the leads). I did try measuring the amperage using the DC (<10 amps) and hit one of the leads and the ground wires and I did hear a hum and might have felt a small buzz. Something is going on there. :)
Questions for you guys:
- Could a GFI outlet that appears to have met the end of it's service life be impacting the pump? The pool equipment has its own breaker panel and shows no indication of being related to the GFI circuit in question.
- Is there another possible reason 3 different motors wouldn't work on a circuit with confirmed 118V?
I'm hoping there's a simple(ish) explanation as I'd rather not have to pay a pool professional or electrician but it appears I'm stumped. I can afford the service call but I do take pride in DIY and saving $.
Any insight before I tap out and call in paid help?
